I’m standing in the midst of a long line of scantily clad men and women, of all shapes and sizes, with varying degrees of modesty in their swimwear choices, and shuffling gradually forward towards the front.

We are in the indoor pool area on the Venus, a luxury cruise ship of the Viking cruise line, currently sailing north on the Norwegian Sea into the Arctic Circle, where we are keen to witness the mesmerising phenomenon that is the Midnight Sun.

We boarded the Viking Venus on its ‘Into the Midnight Sun’ cruise six days ago in Greenwich, London, after which we sailed up the Thames and out into the sea. We crossed the hauntingly art gallery-like, wind farm-studded North Sea, then called into Edinburgh, the Orkney Isles and the Shetland Islands along the way. We spent a day exploring each of these magical and iconic Scottish destinations, and are now on the first of two Norwegian Sea days.

We have crossed over the imaginary line marking the Arctic Circle, (at 66.5 degrees latitude), and in order to celebrate this auspicious occasion, we are eagerly awaiting our turn to participate in what is known as the ‘Order of the Blue Nose Crossing Ceremony’. This seafaring tradition involves receiving an honorary dob of blue on the end of your chilled nose after you have jumped into (and quickly out of) a freezing pool filled with ice! This is proof that you have crossed into the Arctic Circle, and that you are truly bonkers! 

But with the promise of a fluffy towel, a certificate to prove it, and the added bonus of a shot of Aquavit afterwards, I just have to take the plunge. And so, it seems do a lot of my other fellow passengers. Even some of the crew join in, uniform and all, in order to celebrate their own first ever crossing into ‘the Circle’.

Honnigsvåg….At the Top of the World

We are heading to Honningsvåg at the tip top of Norway. It is cold, wet, windy and wild when we arrive, so blustery in fact, that we decide to forgo the obligatory excursion to Nord Capp (North Cape), the northern most spot in Norway from which you can gaze out over the Arctic Ocean, and instead, stay cosy and warm in the arms of our beautiful Viking ship.

We are by now well settled into our serenely elegant, Scandinavian-styled and spacious Penthouse Veranda Stateroom, and are more than happy to enjoy its luxuriously appointed comforts for the day. Did I mention the free mini bar and heated bathroom floor?

We laze around, spend our day exploring the onboard museum, catch up with a good book (one of many from the library shelves scattered throughout the ship), stretch out on a pool lounge in a Lanai, a bright space on Deck 7 framed by floor to ceiling windows, and follow this up with a few games of electronic backgammon in ‘The Atrium’. A session in the gym and lunch at the ‘World Café’, and suddenly we have filled in our day, and it’s time for dinner!  

The Venus offers an array of restaurants with regional cuisine, buffet and al fresco dining. Tonight, as soon as we sit down at our table in ‘The Restaurant’, the main dining venue on Deck 2, we are excited to see a small pod of Pilot Whales swimming alongside us, then, by chance, we spot the extraordinary sight of a large salmon, leaping in and out of the water as a dolphin chases it at speed.

Our window-side, wildlife viewing table also delights us with stunning scenic views of the mountainous islands that line this inside passage. We are leaving Honningsvåg and heading south. As we depart, the clouds and mist are lifting, promising a spectacular trek back down along the coast of Norway. The hills we pass are shrouded and dark, with snow lying in patches at their tops. The sight is magical, and every now and then the mist lifts a little bit more, revealing craggy, moss coloured cliff faces, flocks of wheeling seabirds, and sometimes a little house perched precariously and alone above the water’s edge. Our passage is calm and quiet as we head for Tromsø, and as the captain happily informs us, “a beautiful and sunny day”.

Beautiful Tromsø

The next morning, we arrive in Tromsø, known affectionately as Norway’s ‘Gateway to the Arctic’. 77,000 people live in this Nordic island city, which has a milder climate than anywhere else on the same latitude, due to its position in the Gulf Stream.

It is home to the stunning, icy-white Arctic Cathedral, the fascinating Northern Light Planetarium, and it boasts Norway’s one and only Troll Museum. In summer it is surrounded by majestic snow kissed mountains, and its hills are covered in a colourful array of tiny timber houses.

Tromsø is also a good place to shop for Norwegian knitwear, to see the Midnight Sun, and is an easily accessible spot for those wishing to fulfill their dream of witnessing the Arora Borealis (Northern Lights) in the winter.

Partying with the Midnight Sun

From Tromsø we cruise to Lofoten, via a smooth and crystal clear inside passage. We pass towns and villages stretched along a shoreline scattered with houses so close to the water’s edge, their reflections appear faultlessly in the mirrored depths below.

There are no whales (February is the best time for whale watching I’m told), but the birdlife is prolific. They, and our ship, are the only ripple-creating beasts floating across this perfectly still body of water.

The sun follows our journey diligently throughout the night, dipping behind a mountain now and then, but always reappearing, as if playing a cheeky game of hide and seek.

It’s after midnight, but the sun isn’t going to bed. It’s locked into party mode and staying up all night!

I’m finding it hard to tear myself away from this magical midnight event. While the light is still so bright and the passing views are so sweet, I’m torn, but I take one last look, and draw the curtains firmly shut.

It’s time to say goodnight, and leave the sun to its mid-summer madness.

I need to get some sleep, for tomorrow we are up early to explore the magical bays and majestic peeks of the Lofoten Islands.

Surf, Sun & Sand on the Lofoten Islands….

Although sitting approx. 179km above the Arctic Circle, the Lofoten Islands are blessed with a temperate summer climate.

They are home to farming, fishing, breathtaking jagged peaks, cosy, sheltered bays, and surprisingly, white, sandy, surfing beaches.

Our ship is docked in the port of Leknes, on the island of Vestvågøya, in the centre of the Lofoten archipelago, and our exploration of the island takes us from one extraordinarily beautiful scenic spot after another.

As we travel, we see local houses sporting grass-covered roofs, (I understand goats are used to keep these lofty lawns under control), watch sea eagles soaring majestically overhead, and hear bells ding-dong melodically on grazing sheep as they scramble across the steep hillsides.

We learn about the drying racks used to hang fish out in the warm summer months, and gaze spellbound from yet another vantage point, out over the sea to the Norwegian mainland, clearly visible on such a perfectly sunny day.

Spectacular Geiranger Fjord

This morning our ship cruises quietly into Geiranger Fjord without fuss or fanfare, and anchors just off the port of Geiranger.

We have sailed overnight from the Lofoten Islands, on the second last leg of our journey along Norway’s stunning coastline, and it seems we have left the best till last.

We are floating on the pristine emerald waters of Geiranger Fjord. It is tranquil, and so, so still.

We are surrounded by towering, craggy peaks, steep cliff faces and magnificent plummeting waterfalls. It is truly breathtaking.

Today, our mission is to explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site for ourselves, learn its secrets, and admire its magnificence from all angles, especially from above!

With sneaking thoughts of vertigo pushed firmly aside, we board our coach and head off on our adventure.

Geiranger Fjord is 15 km long, up to 1.5 km wide, and reaches 700 metres deep. It is one of Norway’s most visited and scenic tourist spots. At the end of the fjord sits the tiny village of Geiranger which boasts a permanent population of no more than 300 inhabitants, that is, until the tourist buses, cruise ships and campervans arrive in droves in the summer months, and then this figure swells dramatically.

Our mission today is to climb to Eagles Bend Viewpoint which towers 2000 feet above Geiranger village. In order to reach this incredible viewing platform, we must negotiate 11 heart-stopping hairpin bends that zig zag up Eagles Road. And we are not alone. There are buses, campervans, cars, electric buggies, motorbikes and bicycles, joining us, either going up or coming back down. The corners are tight and the road so narrow, the buses can barely pass each other.

But we arrive safely, and the view over the fjord is jaw dropping, with the surrounding mountains dusted in snow, nestling tiny abandoned farms on their hillsides. There are ribbon-like waterfalls cascading down the sheer rock faces, and our ship sparkles in the sunlight 2000 feet below us.

We learn that when farmers first built their small narrow high-altitude houses, they tucked them tightly into the mountainside so that an avalanche would run right over the top and not destroy them, and to prevent their children from falling off the cliff edges while playing outside, they tied a rope securely around their waists and then anchored it to a tree!

Back onboard we attend the Evening Lectures, share our day with fellow guests over a drink in the Explorer’s Bar and take in a new performance in the Theatre after dinner. There may not be any casinos onboard the Venus, but they are not missed. After all, this is the ‘thinking person’s cruise’ and we are here to be enlightened and to explore.

The Chef’s Table…Norwegian Style

A Viking cruise would not be complete without a memorable meal at one of the ship’s two Specialty Fine Dining Restaurants, Manfredi’s and The Chef’s Table. We enjoy both, and are blown away by The Chef’s Table’s five-course tasting menu of Norwegian culinary delights, accompanied by paired wines and gloriously dusky sea views.

Our waiter explains the details of our culinary journey, and advises which wines to expect, and when. ‘If you’re not sure,” he says, “always drink from right to left,” indicating the row of glasses neatly lined up on the table in front of us. Armed with this vital information, our culinary journey begins.

We are delighted by such delicacies as Reindeer Consommé; Salmon Déclinaison; a cleansing Granita called Lapland Delight; and a delicious Lamb Får-I-Kål main course (elected the national dish of Norway back in 1970). Delicious! Finally, the pièce de résistance, Cloudberry Soup, a Viking-inspired sweet sensation of Vanilla White Chocolate Panna Cotta on Sesame Ice Cream, complete with Goro (wafers) neatly arranged as cute little Viking Horns.

A well-balanced and innovative menu, truly expressing the unique flavours and textures of beautiful Norway. Well done, Chef!

Beautiful Bergen!

Our Norway cruise finishes in beautiful Bergen, Norway’s second largest city (pop 280,000). It is the home of composer Edvard Grieg, the historic Bryggen Wharf, a McDonalds restaurant c1710, and a popular reindeer sausage food truck called 3-Kroneten. Bergen is also known as the rainiest city in Norway, but today, as we begin our exploration, it is sunny and warm.

We start our exploration just 200 metres from our ship at the fortress of Bergenhus Castle, King Håkõn Håkonsson’s royal residence in the 13th century. We explore the castle grounds and wander the parks and buildings, discovering a WWII bunker completely camouflaged in ivy!

A sculpture of Kong (King) Haakon VII (1872-1957) stands proudly above a line of cannons, and like them, he is on guard, searching the port for enemy ships intent on attacking his beloved Norway.

Wandering to the opposite side of the port, we find the Fish Market where we cruise the stalls of recent catches, then stop for a lunch of fresh Salmon Sushi on the wharf.

Hunger sated, we continue our walk, past Lille Lungegårdsvannet, the magnificent 5 acre natural lake with its spectacular fountain, and head to the Kode Art Museums (spread across four stately buildings), where we take in the works of famous Norwegian artists – Munch, Krohg, Stromme, Dahl and Astrup as well as Picasso and Klee.

There is so much to see and do here in Bergen, and we are keen to spend a few days getting to know its highlights when the cruise ends

As we return to the Venus for our last night onboard, and begin to pack up our things, we are acutely aware that tomorrow we will be set free from our cosy ship’s nest and our Viking’s arms, and we will have to learn to fly once again, by ourselves.

Viking has taken us on a magnificent journey, and shown us the most spectacular parts of Norway. We are overwhelmed by its jaw dropping beauty and the Scandinavian hospitality. We have now ticked two more things off our bucket list – partying with the Midnight Sun, and sailing all the way to the Arctic Circle and back.

If you don’t believe me, I can show you my Blue Nose Certificate to prove it 😉

Before You Go…

• For more information about this cruise contact Viking Cruises

• The ‘Into the Midnight Sun’ cruise departs from Greenwich, London

• Search London Accommodation at Booking.com

• We flew to London with Singapore Airlines (BNE-SIN-LHR) with a 3hr 15m transit

• Flight Times: BNE-SIN SQ246 : 7h 55m / SIN-LHR SQ308: 13h 40m

• Transit: 3hr 15m at Changi Airport

• There’s lots to see and do while transiting at Changi Airport, including a Butterfly Garden, Rooftop Pool, Adventure Park and much, much more.

• We chose Cover More for Travel Insurance (including Cruise Insurance)