‘Søndagstur’ means going for a walk on Sundays, and although it is Saturday, we’ve decided to follow this Norwegian tradition a day early, and explore the beautiful city of Bergen by foot.
We have landed here via a magical cruise exploring Norway’s breathtaking coastline all the way from the Arctic Circle in the north, via jaw dropping fjords and scenic stopovers, to its mild coastal climes in the south west.
We have had a two week Scandi sea immersion and are now ready for some land based exploration in Norway’s second largest city and ‘Gateway to the Fjords’, Bergen.
We disembark ship at 9am, and must amuse ourselves until hotel check in time at 3pm. Easy! We are in beautiful, bustling Bergen after all, and there’s lots to see and do in this proudly Hanseatic, seafaring, medieval city.
After dropping luggage off at our hotel, the first stop on our ramble is at UNESCO World Heritage site, Bryggen, the historic wharf area of Bergen, and also where we are staying, at the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel.
Here on Bryggen Wharf reminders abound of Bergen’s days as a key member of the Hanseatic League trading organisation, and its importance as a trading stronghold between the 14th and 16th centuries.
Its characteristic wooden buildings date back to 1350, and although ravaged by many fires over the centuries, they have been lovingly and traditionally reconstructed each time.
UNESCO describes Bryggen as ‘a relic of an ancient wooden urban structure once common in Northern Europe.’
Today 62 buildings remain and the Hanseatic township continues to retain its authenticity. As we pass by, we notice that restoration work is still ongoing. The Hanseatic Museum is neatly wrapped in a replica cover of its own shopfront, as artisans work behind the scenes to bring this aging old beauty back to it’s former glory.
Although nestled within the urban landscape of Bergen’s city centre, Bryggen connects closely with the many small wooden buildings scattered across the hillsides. It may be mediaeval in looks, and famed as one of the oldest trading ports of Northern Europe, but Bryggen also caters happily to a 21st century local/tourist crowd, who enjoy nothing more than to sit at tables on the cobblestones along the busy, bustling wharf and drink beer!
Not far from Bryggen (back towards the cruise ship terminal) lies the fortress of Bergenhus Castle, the royal residence from the 13th century. We explore the castle grounds and wander the parks and buildings, discovering a WWII bunker completely camouflaged in ivy.
On the sea front above a line of cannons, proudly stands a statue of King Haakon VII (1872-1957), binoculars in hand, always on guard and searching the port for enemy ships intent on attacking his beloved Norway. King Haakon is revered for his role in uniting Norway’s resistance to attack and to the five-year-long Nazi occupation during World War II. His statue perfectly represents his undying devotion to his believed homeland.
For a panoramic birds eye view of Bergen (known also as ‘The City Between the Seven Mountains’), we climb to the top of Mount Fløyen, 320 metres above sea level via a six-minute ride on the Fløibanen funicular, right from the city centre. Fjords, islands, ships, colourful houses and the vibrant cityscape lie spread out before us, and we wonder if King Haakon frequented this summit for its far reaching lookout benefits back in the day.
After gliding back down to sea level, we wander to the opposite side of the port, to find the historic and famous Fisketorget Fish Market (dating back to 1276). We cruise the stalls of recent catches, fresh fruit and veg, then stop for a lunch of fresh Salmon Sushi on a bench at the wharf, soaking in the seafront vista and balmy summer day. It’s hard to believe that Bergen is also known as the ‘Rainiest Place in Norway’, having over 200 wet days a year! Luckily for us, today is not one them.
Sushi devoured, we walk on, past pretty Lille Lungegårdsvannet, the magnificent five acre natural lake with its spectacular fountain, to the Kode Art Museums, where we take in the works of famous Norwegian and international artists such as Munch, Krohg, Stromme, Dahl, Astrup, Picasso and Klee.
What a magnificent art precinct it is, spread over four separate buildings, and featuring permanent and special exhibitions, the second largest in Norway. We manage two of them, Stenersen showcasing the astonishing art collection of Rolf Stenersen, and Rasmus Meyer where Edvard Munch artworks are always on display.
But Bergen’s artwork isn’t just confined to galleries alone. As we wander its streets, a plethora of street art is revealed in delightful abundance around every corner, exposing Bergen’s true personality as the epicentre of Scandinavian Street Art. Over 1000 artworks adorn walls, buildings and footpaths, created by some of Europe’s most reputable street artists like AFK, Argus, M.u.M and Dolk. Even Banksy made his mark in Bergen back in 2000, before he became a household name, but his artwork was removed by the local council.
“Our task is to keep it clean and simple. We never thought that graffiti and street art would be this valuable for our city.” Henning Warloe, former member of the Bergen City Council.
I’m sure they regret that decision now!
Our cultural appetite now completely satisfied, we wander along Torgallmenningen, an expansive pedestrian space in the heart of Bergen. Here people gather, shop and relax in the shade of the commanding Seafarers’ Monument. It’s a wide open space, originally built as a fire break in an effort to control those tenaciously regular fires that historically plagued Bergen and its tinder-timber structures.
As we continue on, we pass more juxtaposing elements of this fascinating city. A c1710 McDonalds restaurant building, an abundance of hair salons and antique shops, a popular reindeer sausage food truck called 3-Kroneten, and a diminutive bronze statue of famous Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg, back turned to us, standing with walking stick, and admiring the architecturally contemporary and imposing Grieghallen Concert Hall named in his honour.
We complete our explore with a little Norwegian shopping along Bryggen Wharf and a duck into the Bryggens Museum (just behind our hotel) to discover more about Bergen’s middle ages archeology and their fascinating way of communicating with runes, then head back to our hotel for drinks on the Radisson Blu’s deck, followed by a sumptuous dinner in restaurant – 26 North.
The masses are also settling in for the afternoon, congregating in Bryggen for sundowners on the cobblestones and a modern day midsummer party that goes on all night.
Our day of ‘søndagstur’ has been a huge success. We have walked 16,500 steps and explored both sides of this incredibly diverse city, discovering its historic integrity and its modern vibrancy, combined so effortlessly, to create the well adjusted ‘City of Contrasts’ Bergen is today.
Add these to your Bergen Bucket List…
Explore the Bryggens Museum to experience life in Medieval times through building remains and objects discovered via archeological excavation, the world’s largest collection of runic inscriptions, including receipts, poems, gossip and magical formulas. Get your fill of Medieval life through the ‘Underground, Exhibit’, an array of ever-changing exhibitions and weekly lectures in the Auditorium.
Troldhaugen was once the home of composer Edvard Grieg, and now a living museum comprising an exhibition centre with shop and café, concert hall, composers’ cabin and Grieg’s villa dating from 1885. Daily concerts and guided tours of the villa run continuously for groups and individual tourists.
Fantoft Stave Church was originally built in Fortun in Sogn in 1170 and moved to Fantoft in 1883. It was set on fire and burnt to the ground in 1992, after which it was reconstructed in the traditional fashion. The church is open for visits during the summer season, but it is possible to take a closer look from the outside throughout the year.
Walk Through Trollskogen Troll Forest – If you don’t have the time (or energy) to do one of the many hikes on Mt Fløyen, hike through the Trollskogen Troll Forest behind the café instead, and enjoy the forest with it’s weird and wonderful timber troll sculptures scattered throughout.
Ulriken Cable Car (643m) – Take the Ulriken Cable Car up to the highest of Bergen’s 7 mountains in Norway’s largest gondolas. Enjoy spectacular hiking, or Nordic food with stunning views at Skyskarperen Restaurant, or stop off for coffee at Café at Mount Ulriken. Get there by Ulriksbussen, Light Rail or car.
Ride the Flåm Railway – This spectacular and steep railway journey stretches from the high mountain station of Myrdal (867 meters above sea level) on the Bergen Line down to Flåm (2 m above sea level) at the head of Aurlandsfjord. Stay in Flåm or take the return journey from Bergen. We stayed overnight at Flåm Marina & Apartments.
Cruise Bergen’s fjords, and visit “the best unspoiled travel destination in the world” according to National Geographic. Take a day trip from Bergen to Sognefjord (Norway’s longest & deepest), including World Heritage Nærøyfjord, or to the ‘Queen of Norewgian Fjords’ – Hardangerfjord.
Nykirken – The Children’s Church was originally built in 1621 and reconstructed over the years due to fire. It is informally known as ‘the Children’s Church’, and is largely decorated inside by local children, A ‘Baptismal Angel’ is a large carved angel which descends from the ceiling of the church by a pulley system, and bears in its hand the bowl for infant baptisms. Enter through the basement which houses the ruins of the original Archbishop’s residence upon which the ‘New Church’ was built.
Akvariet i Bergen Bergen’s Aquarium first opened in 1960 and currently features more than 300 species in over 60 tanks as well as three outdoor ponds with sea lions, penguins and fish. In the tropical section, get up close and personal with crocodiles, turtles, snakes, and iguanas. Their ongoing work in raising awareness about the problem of plastic in the sea, is through the initiatives “Sea of garbage” and “Plastic city”.
Magic Ice Bergen is the hottest place to cool down in sub-zero temperatures, with an ice-art gallery showcasing ice sculptures inspired by famous works of Norwegian & international artists such as Edvard Grieg and and Edvard Munch. Enjoy their special signature drink served in an ice glass, while rugged up in a warm winter poncho and gloves.
Bergen Tourist Information Centre – here you can book activities, fjord tours, sightseeing, attraction tickets or the Bergen Card for Bergen and the region. Currency exchange is also available. It’s easy to find, located on Torget, next to the Fish Market
Before you go…
We travelled to Bergen via a Viking Ocean Cruise ‘Into the Midnight Sun‘ from London.
We flew back to London on Scandinavian Airways via a short transit in Oslo.
Flying times from Bergen to London: BGO-OSL: 50 min + OSL-LHR: 2h 20min
We stayed at Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Bergen which is located right in the heart of Bryggen Wharf
Learn more about Bergen UNESCO City of Gastronomy
Learn more about Norway’s Fjords
Learn more about Bryggen and the Hanseatic League
Learn more about Norwegian Street Art
Read More on the Blog:
Bergen’s artwork isn’t just confined to galleries. Wander its streets, and a plethora of street art is revealed in delightful abundance around every corner, exposing Bergen’s true personality as the epicentre of Scandinavian Street Art.
Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Bergen
The Radisson Blu Royal Hotel’s modern hotel sits comfortably within the historic architecture of Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage Bryggen Wharf, and is within easy walking distance of all the bucket list attractions you’ll need to tick off in Bergen.
Pixsell Travels 
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